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Check Your Bias: A Handmaiden Quilt
As a quilter, I have always enjoyed seeing new interpretations of the traditional Sunbonnet Sue pattern in quilts. I had imagined that I might complete a quilt of the pattern at some time, although I recognized that my inclinations were not to reproduce a “cutesy” version of this pattern. This essay describes the making and meaning of my Dystopia Rouge: A Series of Crewel Jokes; aka Check Your Bias quilt in which all of the “Sues” were depicted as Handmaidens, the female characters described in Margaret Atwood’s 1985 novel, The Handmaid’s Tale1 and introduced to many through the 2017 television series that brought new topical nuances to the story.2 Genesis of the Idea
One of the earliest illustrations of a child wearing a sunbonnet was in the Sun-bonnet Babies Primer, a children’s learn-to-read book published in 1900.4 It was written by Eulalie Osgood Grover with illustrations by Bertha Corbett. Corbett’s art was likely influenced by the work of Kate Greenaway, who published ‘Under the Window’ in 1878. The translation of the Sunbonnet girls into textile imagery, folk art, and popular culture took place during the 1890s. A redwork embroidery pattern for a bonneted little girl appeared in the 1888 February issue of Harper’s, Ladies Art Patterns issued instructions for Sunbonnet Sue blocks in 1900, and a pattern by Marie Webster for an appliquéd block called ‘Sunbonnet Lassies’ was published in the Ladies Home Journal Magazine in 1911.5,6,7 Sunbonnet Sue was even the subject of a song, recorded by Harry Macdonough & the Haydn Quartet in 1908.8
A search of The Quilt Index reveals that many Sunbonnet Sue quilts have been made since the early 1900s, especially during the 1920s and 1930s9. Then there seems to have been a lull in quilters using that pattern, but by the 1970s there was a resurgence in nostalgia for images of an innocent childhood, as witnessed by the production and marketing of images featuring Holly Hobbie.10 In parallel, the feminist movement supported a shift from images of female docility and domesticity to more relevant and contemporary interpretations of the pattern. One particularly well-known example is the 1979 quilt ‘The Sun Sets on Sunbonnet Sue’ by Seamsters Local No. 500, a group of women in Lawrence, Kansas.11 Another is ‘Death Becomes Her’ made by a group of women in Missouri in 1997.12
Figure 2: The Sun Sets on Sunbonnet Sue
I was inspired to make my own protest quilt in September 2018 when I visited a quilt show in Pinehurst, North Carolina. While enjoying looking at a black and white miniature version of a Sunbonnet Sue quilt, I noticed that one Sue, rendered in black clothing, looked a little like Ruth Bader Ginsburg, a member of the U.S. Supreme Court.
Figure 3: Sunbonnet Sue Miniature
Figure 4: U.K. Prime Minister Theresa May as a Handmaiden to both Brexit and U.S. President Trump.
At this point, I had never heard of Craftivism.16 However, as my quilt project progressed, I became increasingly aware of how quilts had long been used as tools for social change and commentary, and noted their power to send a message to another time.17 I was particularly moved by Sara Trail’s quilt ‘Rest in Power, Trayvon’18 and the Changi quilt of 1942.19
By 2019, I had finished the quilt and titled it ‘Dystopia Rouge: A Series of Crewel Jokes.’ Each of the twelve blocks, one for each month of the year, is aligned to a current affairs topic. In the border surrounding the blocks, I free-motion quilted words pertinent to the topics. The color palette was deliberately chosen to provide contrast between the crimson Handmaiden dresses and the calmness typically associated with the Japanese achromatic neutral and taupe aesthetic.20
Description of and Story behind Each Block
Block 1: Women’s Rights
Block 1: Women’s Rights
This block acknowledges the Women’s March in 2017. I show the Handmaiden’s daughter carrying a white rose, wearing a ‘pussyhat’ and a black dress. She is one of many figures wearing ‘pussyhats’ in the quilted background.
Block 2: Valentines and LGBTQ
Block 2: Valentines and LGBTQ
This block represents the mantras ‘love is love’ and ‘make love not war’. The Handmaiden holds red heart-shaped balloons to acknowledge the typical celebrations of Valentine’s Day, to celebrate Banksy‘s role in holding up a mirror to the art world establishment, and to note the concerns of the LGBTQ community about the Trump administration’s statements.
Block 3: The Power of Peaceful Protest, Responsible Gun Control
Block 3: The Power of Peaceful Protest, Responsible Gun Control
A discussion about the removal of Confederate flags and monuments from public places continued through 2015-2017. Heather Heyer was fatally injured in a car attack that took place during confrontational protests between white supremacists and counter-protesters during rallies in Charlottesville, Virginia on 12 August 2017; the driver was subsequently convicted of murder.32
The deadliest high school shooting in U.S. history took place at the Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School in Florida on 14 February 2018.33 The shooter was charged with 17 counts of premeditated murder and 17 counts of attempted murder. Subsequently, a group of student survivors organized the #NeverAgain movement to demand legislative action to prevent similar shootings and call out the political role of the National Rifle Association. A number of rallies and a series of demonstrations called ‘March for our Lives’ were held on 24 March 2018.34
This block acknowledges the power of peaceful protest against violence, including gun violence, around the world. The Handmaiden holds a banner offering a pun on the month of ‘March’ against a background of cityscape images including Paris, London, Sydney and Washington D.C. The daffodil represents the spring flowers that are frequently a feature of Sunbonnet Sue quilts and often worn in Wales on St. David’s Day (1 March). My intent was to commemorate the lives lost at the Charleston shooting at Mother Emanuel in 2015, in Charlottesville in 2017, at the school shooting in Florida and other mass shootings of 2018, and to recognize the large number of protest marches that took place between 2017 and 2019.
Block 4: Environment
Block 4: Environment
The Paris Agreement was signed in 2016 within the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and dealt with greenhouse-gas-emissions mitigation, adaptation, and finance.36 In June 2017, the U.S. administration announced its intent to withdraw from the agreement, although UN regulations meant that the decision didn’t take effect until 2020.37
Meanwhile, climate change deniers courted publicity in equal measure to the continuing call to action on global warming articulated by Sir David Attenborough,38 Greta Thunberg,39 and Dame Jane Goodall.40 This dialogue played out against a backdrop of climate-change-related natural disasters in the U.S. between 2016-2018, including Hurricane Irma, Hurricane Florence, Hurricane Michael,41,42 wildfires and consequent mud slides in California, and increased publicity regarding global warming and plastics in the ocean.43,44
The Flint water crisis was a public health scandal that unfolded in 2014 following the switch in the drinking water source for the city of Flint, Michigan from the Detroit water system to the Flint River, leading to the exposure of between 6,000 and 12,000 children to drinking water containing high levels of lead.45
This block notes that as evidence for climate change mounted, there was discord around the U.S. regarding environmental policies. The Handmaiden holds a globe and stands in rising sea water.
Block 5: Emergence of the Resistance
Block 5: Emergence of the Resistance
This block acknowledges the contribution of technological developments to war and peace and the rise of grassroots organizations in politics. The Handmaiden salutes a ‘Star Wars’ fighter plane. The quilted logo relates to the Rebel Alliance group featured in the ‘Star Wars’ movies,51 and the line quilting represents the notations used to identify resistors in electrical diagrams52 and the Ohm (measure of resistance) in physics.53
Block 6: Science
Block 6: Science
In contrast, vaccine hesitancy (the anti-vaxxer movement) was blamed for outbreaks of measles in several regions and cities including Minnesota in 2017 and New York in 2018.59 And restrictions on the use of human fetal tissue in medical research came into effect in June 2019, apparently driven by the anti-abortion agenda of the Trump administration,60 and against the advice of the American Medical Association and other scientific bodies.61
In response to a new type of ‘anti-science’ rhetoric in the popular media, an estimated 1.07 million people attended the March for Science in 2017.62
This Handmaiden holds a conical flask filled with chemical structure notations against a quilted background representing DNA. This block celebrates the contribution of women to science and gives a nod to my professional career in medicine development.
Block 7: Russia
Block 7: Russia
In this block, the Handmaiden holds a set of Russian nesting dolls and stands beside signposts that give directions to ‘follow the money,’ in order to represent the Mueller investigation.
Block 8: Immigration and the Federal Government Shutdown 2018/2019
Block 8: Immigration and the Federal Government Shutdown 2018/2019
Figure 5: Immigration Map
Immigration debates revolved around the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals (DACA) Act and the Development, Relief, and Education for Alien Minors (DREAM) Act, proposals intended to address the rights of undocumented immigrants who entered the U.S. as minors; the so called Dreamers.66 Despite the history of America as being ‘a nation of immigrants’and the reforms proposed in the 1958 book by then U.S. Senator John F. Kennedy,67 alarms were sounded over a ‘migrant caravan’ of refugees who traveled from South America with the intent of crossing into the U.S. from the Mexican border;68 this led to children being separated from their parents and held in cages in detention centers, causing a public outcry.69
This block represents an immigrant Handmaiden carrying a backpack, or a papoose, that is covered in flags from some of the many nations whose immigrants have contributed to the development of the U.S. I happened to be taking a hiking trip in Joshua Tree National Park around this time, so I placed the Handmaiden in that park.
Block 9: Social Media
Block 9: Social Media
The shifting role of social media in news delivery during this period was effectively summarized in the 2020 docudrama ‘The Social Dilemma’. Accusations that reputable news sources such as NPR, AP, BBC and CNN were spreading ‘fake news’ encouraged a new chapter of skepticism as more and more people used social media sources to swap news, creating so called ‘echo chambers’ which contributed to an increasingly polarized political landscape.71
This block acknowledges the role of social media in supporting or creating dystopia and ‘echo chambers’. The Handmaiden holds the Twitter logo and the quilting plays on the pun of a hashtag also representing the musical notation for a sharp key, as well as showing the App identifiers for Facebook, Instagram, Messenger and WhatsApp.
Block 10: Healthcare
Block 10: Healthcare
This block acknowledges the debates about health insurance and abortion rights in the U.S. during this period. The Handmaiden is a healthcare professional standing on a path paved with prescription medicines, and the quilting shows a range of patients, including a pregnant woman.
Block 11: Women’s Rights and Suffrage
Block 11: Women’s Rights and Suffrage
In the U.S., there was renewed discussion about the process of partisan and racial gerrymandering of voting districts during the run-up to the 2018 mid-term elections,80 and perceptions of voting suppression in the state of Georgia were flagged by Stacey Adams.81
This block highlights the importance of the women’s vote, and of women running for political office, in the November 2018 mid-term elections. The Handmaiden carries a banner urging women to vote and wears a sash depicting the colors of the UK WSPU movement. The jigsaw quilting pattern acknowledges the importance of fair delineation of voting district boundaries.
Block 12: Three Branches of Government and the U.S. Supreme Court
Block 12: Three Branches of Government and the U.S. Supreme Court
This block notes the importance of the third branch of government, the U.S. Supreme Court. This Handmaiden holds the scales of justice, reflecting the Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. quote “The moral arc of the universe is long but it bends toward justice”. The free-motion quilting represents the U.S. Supreme Court building.
President Trump was impeached for the first time in December 201984 and for the second time in January 2021,85 so I added a peach to this block subsequent to its original display in 2019.
Conclusion
Dystopia Rouge: A Series of Crewel Jokes was exhibited at the American Quilt Society Show in Charleston, South Carolina, in September 2019. Protest or political commentary quilts are not new, , but this was the first time I had expressed myself in this way, and I found it cathartic. I strived to select images that were somewhat witty and not overtly negative in order to avoid confrontation with those who might hold different opinions about the topics represented; hence the subtitle ‘Check Your Bias’. I am grateful for the conversations that this quilt started during its construction and as individuals are able to view it, whether in exhibitions or in The Quilt Index.
Acknowledgements
The author thanks Lisa Hand, MD and Marsha MacDowell, PhD for their thoughtful reviews.
Source for Figure 1: Bowers, Alison. Dystopia Rouge: A Series of Crewel Jokes aka Check Your Bias. 2019. From the Quilts and Human Rights Project. Published in The Quilt Index, https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=45-46-25. Accessed March 14, 2021.
Source for Figure 2: Brackman, Barbara; Metinger, Nancy; Dwigans, Cathy; Metzinger, Laurie Schwarm; Hood, Gloria; Englinski, Georgann; Dill, Bonnie; Boyer, Patty; Kelley, Bette; Jones, Carol Gilham; Dangerfield, Nadra; Anderson, Brya. The Sun Sets on Sunbonnet Sue. c.1979. From Michigan State University Museum, Michigan Quilt Project; Michigan State University Museum Collection. Published in The Quilt Index. https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=12-8-1. Accessed: February 16, 2021.
Source for Figure 3: Authors photograph, Pinehurst Quilt Show, 2018.
Source for Figure 4: The Tiny Handmaid's Tale. Welcome Back to Pottersville blog/meme. July 13, 2018. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=tiygvcPF&id=174F8A68396AFDB99FC0C59CB11D189BFE0D66CA&thid=OIP.tiygvcPFgtFaJvMUoqrDOgAAAA&mediaurl=https%3A%2F%2F1.bp.blogspot.com%2F-njNz3nqpyoA%2FW0jrLA2ihrI%2FAAAAAAAAfLs%2F4eWSFF-EG5MPyTOaFRp6W_y8s8sbfDKhACLcBGAs%2Fs400%2Fhandmaid%2BTrump.jpg&exph=388&expw=400&q=meme+theresa+may+trump+handmaid&simid=608009503895193112&ck=C7565557506B592E049018AC924BB414&selectedindex=0&form=EX0023&adlt=demote&shtp=GetUrl&shid=5a3f9933-60be-4f9c-9e9d-21e2d10c8543&shtk=V2VsY29tZSBCYWNrIHRvIEdvdGhhbSBDaXR5OiBUaGUgVGlueSBIYW5kbWFpZCdzIFRhbGU%3D&shdk=Rm91bmQgb24gQmluZyBmcm9tIHdlbGNvbWViYWNrdG9wb3R0ZXJzdmlsbGUuYmxvZ3Nwb3QuY29t&shhk=%2Fy8oSAzrc90VOCZsWloML6LfOphoLz9Iv0Xm0cSKsYk%3D&shth=OSH.UoOyVsazJ7NJ4nQ9n4bAYA
Source for Figure 5: John F. Kennedy A Nation of Immigrants. 1958. (ISBN 978-0-06-144754-9). Wikipedia. Daniela Passal - https://www.raremaps.com/gallery/detail/68060/a-nation-of-immigrants-passal Accessed March 14, 2021.
Footnotes
1Margaret Atwood, The Handmaid’s Tale, Publisher: Vintage Publishing.1985. ISBN: 9781784708238.
2The Handmaid's Tale (2017–) Company Credits. IMDb. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5834204/companycredits?ref_=tt_ql_dt_4 Accessed March 14, 2021.
3Bowers, Alison. Dystopia Rouge: A Series of Crewel Jokes aka Check Your Bias. 2019. From Quilts and Human Rights, Quilts and Human Rights. Published in The Quilt Index, https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=45-46-25. Accessed 03/14/21.
4Eulalie Osgood Grover. The Sunbonnet Babies Primer. 1902 (Chicago: Rand, McNally). Library of Congress categorization PE1119 .G8. https://openlibrary.org/books/OL6917289M/The_sunbonnet_babies'_primer Accessed March 14, 2021.
5Carla Hart Tilghman. "The Life, Death and Resurrection of Sunbonnet Sue." December 2012 AMS 801:1-23. https://www.academia.edu/5767883/The_Life_Death_and_Resurrection_of_Sun_Bonnet_Sue?auto=download Accessed March 14, 2021.
6Janet Gilbert. "A Brief History of Sunbonnet Sue." Classic Sewing Magazine. July 6, 2016. https://www.classicsewingmagazine.com/sunbonnet-sue/ Accessed March 14, 2021.
7"Biography of Marie Webster." Quilters Hall of Fame Inductee 1991. https://quiltershalloffame.net/marie-webster/ Accessed March 14, 2021.
8Harry Macdonough & the Haydn Quartet. Sunbonnet Sue. 1908. Recording on Victor 5568. https://youtu.be/QHnr9Gul9ek Accessed March 14, 2021.
9The Quilt Index – search results for pattern name ‘Sunbonnet Sue’. https://quiltindex.org/results/?search=quilts&back=pattern-names&pattern_name=Sunbonnet%20Sue Accessed March 14, 2021.
10"Holly Hobbie." Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holly_Hobbie (Accessed June 16, 2021).
11Brackman Barbara; Metinger, Nancy; Dwigans, Cathy; Metzinger, Laurie Schwarm; Hood, Gloria; Englinski, Georgann; Dill, Bonnie; Boyer, Patty; Kelley, Bette; Jones, Carol Gilham; Dangerfield, Nadra; Anderson, Brya. The Sun Sets on Sunbonnet Sue. c.1979. From Michigan State University Museum, Michigan Quilt Project; Michigan State University Museum Collection. Published in The Quilt Index. https://quiltindex.org//view/?type=fullrec&kid=12-8-1. Accessed: February 16, 2021.
12Carla Hart Tilghman. "The Life, Death and Resurrection of Sunbonnet Sue." December 2012 AMS 801:1-23. https://www.academia.edu/5767883/The_Life_Death_and_Resurrection_of_Sun_Bonnet_Sue?auto=download Accessed March 14, 2021.
13"Ruth Bader Ginsburg." Wikipedia. March 12, 2021. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruth_Bader_Ginsburg Accessed March 14, 2021.
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15The Guardian. "How the Handmaids Tale Dressed Protests Across the World." August 3, 2018. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/aug/03/how-the-handmaids-tale-dressed-protests-across-the-world Accessed March 14, 2021.
16Baumstark et al. Craftivism Manifesto. https://craftivism.com Accessed March 14, 2021.
17Contemporary Quilt Activism (Craftivism): Craft + Activism = Craftivism. World Quilts/The American Story. International Quilt Museum, University of Nebraska. 2013. https://worldquilts.quiltstudy.org/americanstory/engagement/contemporaryactivism Accessed March 14, 2021.
18Sara Trail, Melinda Newton. No. 2 Pencil Power, inspired by Social Justice Sewing Academy at the National Quilt Museum. The National Quilt Museum Block of the Month Club. January 2020. https://quiltmuseum.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/JAN-2020-BOTM-pattern2.pdf Accessed March 14, 2021
19"The Changi Quilt: Secrets and Survival; the Story of the Changi Quilt." The British Red Cross. 2018. https://changi.redcross.org.uk/ Accessed March 14, 2021.
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28Hallie Jackson, Courtney Kube. "Trump's Controversial Transgender Military Policy Goes into Effect." NBC News. April 12, 2019. https://www.nbcnews.com/feature/nbc-out/trump-s-controversial-transgender-military-policy-goes-effect-n993826 Accessed March 14, 2021.
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Documentation Project
Quilts and Human Rights Michigan State University
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2019
Dystopia Rouge: A... Bowers, Alison
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c.1979
The Sun Sets on S... Brackman, Barbara; ...
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